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When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.